My Austria with Rick Rodgers
About this trip
Join the expert on Austro-Hungarian coffee culture, Rick Rodgers, as he accompanies you on a mouthwatering tour of the best cafes and bakeries of the Hapsburg Empire, including Vienna, Salzburg, and Bad Ischl, and Graz, with an optional three-day extension to Budapest.
Along with traditional Austrian pastries, aficionados of coffee, wine, history, dessert, food, music, nature, and architecture will all find something to love in these beautiful locales. Award-winning food writer and culinary instructor Rick will escort you to his favorite places from his classic book Kaffeehaus, both on and off the beaten track.
This will truly be an insider’s view of a food lover’s Austria: You’ll see a local coffee roaster at work, take part in a hands-on strudel class, savor an exclusive dinner at Steirereck (one of the world’s outstanding restaurants), sip local wines in an authentic Viennese heurige and its counterpart in the Styrian countryside, stroll through gorgeous outdoor markets, and visit truly iconic cafes, where Rick will tell their histories and explain the luscious menus.
Inclusions and exclusions can be found here. Terms and conditions can be found here.
DATES & PRICES
May 8-18, 2025
$4,990 pp, sharing
$5,650 pp, single room
Budapest Extension:
May 18-21, 2025
$2,390 pp, sharing
$2,650 pp, single room
Sample Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival in Vienna & Welcome Dinner
Upon arrival in Vienna, a taxi will be provided to transfer you to the city and our elegant, boutique hotel located in the 7th District, which is known as the creative quarter with its charming cafes, stylish boutiques, hidden courtyards, and museums galore. It’s also home to the smallest house in Vienna at just over eight feet wide.
In the afternoon, there will be an optional walking tour of the neighborhood and then we’ll gather for the welcome dinner at Waldviertlerhof.
Day 2: Vienna Genuß Festival - Museum of Applied Art
Once a year at the beginning of May, Vienna hosts the gourmet food festival in the Stadtpark known as the Genuss Festival. An event of epicurean delights, it showcases high-quality regional food and drink from throughout the country and it’s an excellent place to try (or buy as gifts) regional wines and delicacies as well as some unusual foods. Producers will present their specialties, talk about the production process, and give an insight into their craft.
Afterwards, we’ll walk up Wollzeile, taking in the sights, sounds, kitchenware shops and perhaps a piece of cake, until we arrive at the MAK (Museum of Applied Arts). There, we will discover the Klimt panels from the Stoclet Palais, treasures from the Wiener Werkstatt and more (guided tour). Dinner tonight at Café Prückl. First built in the early 1900s, a large portion of Café Prückel underwent a refit in 1954 and is a fun example of mid-century design.
Day 3: “Food in Art” Tour & Cooking Class
Explore Vienna’s Kunsthistorisches Museum in a “food in art” tour. One of the world's great museums, the "KHM," itself an incredible showplace, was built in 1891 near the Imperial Palace to house the extensive collections of the Hapsburgs. With its vast array of eminent works and the largest Bruegel collection in the world, it is filled with masterpieces you will remember forever. From celebrations and hunts to still lifes and mosaics of antiquity, food has been depicted in art since we lived in caves 20,000 years ago. This unique tour of works in the collection will celebrate the artistic epicurean delights that can be found throughout the museum.
Lunch in the Gerstner-run Cupola Cafe at the museum (not included) followed by some free time.
Late this afternoon we will go to a cooking salon to discover the enchanted world of Austrian cooking. Under expert guidance, we learn the secrets behind the perfect strudel dough and prepare a delicious dinner together before sitting down to eat it.
Day 4: Viennese Wine Country and the Beethoven Museum
Vienna is the only capital in the world to grow substantial quantities of wine within its boundaries. Eighty percent of them are white varietals, including Pinot Blanc, Riesling, and the one-of-a-kind Gemischter Satz. After a leisurely morning we will head out of town for this part of the city. Our first stop will be lunch at the oldest Heuriger in Vienna. Afterwards, we’ll visit the Beethoven Museum. This charming museum was once one of Beethoven’s 70 homes and where he first realized he was losing his hearing.
Our next stop will be Kloster Neuburg, a religious and cultural center for over 900 years. We’ll have a guided tour of the Abbey and winery, followed by a tasting.
Return to Vienna for the rest of the day and evening at leisure.
Day 5: Klimt and Coffee
We start the day at one of the newer museums in Vienna, the Leopold, where the so-called “decadent” art of the early 20th century is displayed, including works by Klimt, Schiele, and Kokoschka. This museum is the showcase of the Museum Quartier, a vibrant new area in this city that cherishes its past.
We will stroll to Café Sperl, one of the most important historical coffeehouses, which still retains its original design and a traditional café menu. Next is a visit to the Nachsmarkt with hundreds of stalls that locals use as a grocery destination while visitors can enjoy it as an endless bazaar of flavors and colors. We finish the day with a visit to one of Rick’s favorite vendors, Gegenbauer, where fruit juices are fermented into delicious vinegars.
This evening, take the opportunity, if you wish, to enjoy a very special dinner at one of the city’s favorite Michelin-starred restaurants, Steiereck (not included). With a welcoming service, this exquisite five-course tasting menu is fundamentally Austrian with a unique twist. Otherwise, enjoy dinner at a restaurant of your choice, perhaps with locals at one of the neighborhood places.
Day 6: The Inner City
Today is our day to explore Vienna’s Innenstadt, the “city center” and nucleus of Austrian contributions to global music, art, architecture, and more. We’ll experience the grandeur of St. Stephen’s Cathedral, jaw-dropping palaces, and one of the prime examples of baroque sculpture, the Plague Column. All while strolling through some of the most beautiful streets in the world. In the early afternoon, we’ll stop at the luxurious Palais Tedesco, where a true hidden gem is tucked away on the second floor. This is Gerstner’s, whose opulent surroundings make it more than just one of Vienna’s top café/bakeries. (Fun Fact: Anna Tedesco was “Cäcilie M.,” one of Freud’s first and mostly unsuccessful. cases) We leave the rest of the afternoon free for you to do any last-minute errands, sight-seeing, or shopping in the city. (Perhaps someplace caught your eye during our tour…just saying.) We have scheduled a farewell-to-Vienna dinner at a very popular local restaurant near the hotel.
Day 7: Vienna -> Bad Ischl -> Salzburg
This morning, we say goodbye to Vienna and drive in our coach to Bad Ischl journeying through stunning mountain landscapes. This region is the famous and beautiful UNESCO-listed Salzkammergut region. Austrians know Bad Ischl as the Hapsburgs’ summer residence and one of its most beautiful towns. This is where much of the legend of the idiosyncratic Empress Elizabeth (world-class dieter, famous beauty, subject of many movies and television series, and eventually assassination victim) was formed, being the location of Emperor Franz Joseph’s marriage proposal to the young woman.
Take a guided walking tour of the charming town before stopping for coffee and a snack at the extraordinary (and detour-worthy) Zauner Cafe. Afterwards, enjoy some free time to explore Bad Ischl and its quaint local museums. Arriving at Salzburg, we will check into the hotel before sitting down to an elevated Salzburgian dinner at a rooftop restaurant to appreciate the view of this historic city. It is also, of course, the filming location of The Sound of Music (celebrating its 60th birthday in 2025), and Rick will tell of his connection with the musical’s composer, Richard Rodgers.
Day 8: Salzburg
Wake up in Alpine Salzburg—a baroque jewel, famous for being the birthplace of Mozart, who personified the entire era. The city was taken over by a series of prince-archbishops during the 17th and 18th centuries who strove to compete with the opulence of papal Rome. They breathed fresh new life into their city and brought the greatest architects of the day to build churches, houses, gardens, and fountains. The magnificent buildings of those times have earned it UNESCO World Heritage status.
Right outside our hotel’s door is the large farmer’s market near the Mirabel Gardens. After exploring this gourmand’s paradise, we’ll have a walking tour of the center city’s sites. Our walk ends at the Salzburg branch of the iconic Sacher Hotel, an elegant stage for Austrian coffee culture and a slice of the world-famous Sachertorte (“mit Schlag”) the only place outside Vienna where you can enjoy the quintessential Austrian dessert. Right around the corner from the Sacher is Mozart’s Wohnhaus, his main residence in the city, where he wrote early symphonies and sacred works. We’ll have a guided tour of this revered spot to music lovers. In the evening, you can choose to attend the unique Salzburg Marionettes Theater’s performance of A Midsummer’s Night’s Dream. or enjoy a quiet evening at leisure.
Day 9: Salzburg -> Graz
This morning, we depart for the medieval city of Graz, in Styria, near the Slovenian border. Graz is Austria’s second largest city and one of its hidden secrets. It has plenty to flaunt, especially for those food, history, and nature lovers, and it is also on the UNESCO World Heritage list. En route, we’ll drive through the Salzkammergut region with its striking alpine landscapes. As we near Graz, we’ll detour to Bärnbach, home to St. Barbara’s Church. This modern house of worship is an example of the Austrian artist and architecht Friedensreich Hundertwasser, whose bold use of color is reminiscent of Matisse, yet his own visionary style. “Fun” is not a word associated with church architecture, but it applies to this joyous structure.
On to Graz, where the surrounding lush farmland and vineyards may remind you of California’s Napa Valley. Local cheeses, traditional pumpkin seed oils, luscious orchards, and well-tended livestock combine to make a diverse and delicious cuisine. Upon arrival in Graz, check into our charming hotel near the town square. We will have a brief tour of the area. Dinner will be at Der Steirer, with its menu of local delights.
Day 10: Graz & Styria
This morning, rise early if you want to visit the Kaiser Josef Farmers’ Market (optional, independent). The huge number of farmers in the region (350 in Graz alone) fill their market stalls with food picked just hours beforehand, as well as typically Styrian specialties. It doesn’t get much fresher than that! Chocolate lovers will have a once-in-a-lifetime experience at the Zötter factory and museum. Easily one of the top chocolatiers in the world, they feature chocolate bars with delicious and often unique fillings (I love their passion fruit and lime). Save room in your luggage to bring home a supply of their treats. We will then wind through the countryside to visit Fandler, a top-notch artisanal oil maker. You be able to their classic Styrian pumpkin seed and nut oils to more modern options like chia and hemp oil. Lunch today will be at a charming guesthouse, Berggasthof König, with its menu of family recipes honed over generations. Back in Graz, choose among many restaurants to find one that suits your appetite that evening.
Day 11: Graz -> Vienna OR Budapest
If you are leaving Austria today, there is a morning group transfer to the airport for afternoon flights back to the US. If you are continuing onto Budapest, we will meet our new guide and driver and continue to Budapest. We will stop on the way at a small, family-owned vineyard, where the owner will wait for us with an open-fire home-made goulash for lunch. But before we eat, we’ll learn how to make the small dumplings, called “csipetke”, which is added to the goulash soup. We’ll eat outside in the vineyard, a traditional activity on a spring day. (Vegetarian option will be available.)
Upon arrival in Budapest, we will check into the hotel. There will be free time until our sunset boat cruise. This will give you some of the best opportunities to see the city's top landmarks. Float past the UNESCO World Heritage–listed riverbank, toasting the sights. Highlights include the Chain Bridge, the Buda Castle District, the Hungarian Parliament, and others.
Day 12: Budapest
This morning, we’ll take a walking tour of the Jewish district. Budapest’s seventh district is a fascinating neighborhood with winding back streets not only filled with impressive neoclassical buildings and old-fashioned artisan workshops, but it is also home to the largest synagogue in Europe which we will visit. We’ll gain a deeper understanding of Hungary’s Jewish history and culture as well as its food. The neighborhood today blends a contemporary buzz with the pervasive aura of the past.
Afterwards, we’ll head to Buda on the other side of the river and the Castle District to visit the Mathias Church and Fisherman’s Bastion.
This evening, dinner will be at a restaurant started by a holocaust survivor who worked at various hotels before starting this restaurant in 1996. The menu is full of traditional favorites as well as contemporary and seasonal dishes.
Day 13: Budapest’s Lehel Market & Free time
Gerbeaud is surely one of the most famous gastronomic assets of Hungary. This historic cafe has been delighting guests with unique pastries since 1858. Besides learning about the legend and tradition of the café, we will taste three typical Hungarian cakes: Dobos, Esterházy and Gerbeaud's own Zserbó slice.
Afterwards, take a very special culinary walking tour of Budapest's Lehel Market, a bustling food hall of local vendors selling fresh produce, aromatic spices, and traditional Hungarian specialties. The market's multi-level interior is alive with the sounds of shoppers and the sizzling of street food being prepared at nearby stalls. Walking through the aisles, we’ll absorb the vibrant cultural experience that this Budapest market offers to both locals and visitors.
Free time this afternoon to explore Budapests famous thermals baths, go back to the Castle or go shopping. PLEASE NOTE: Spa tickets must be booked before departure to ensure desired date.
This evening our farewell dinner will be at an airy, chic bistro that celebrates and elevates Hungarian gastronomy.
Day 14: Budapest -> USA
It is time to say farewell to Budapest this morning. Airport transfers are included.
