Discovering the Basque Country: A Culinary Journey
About this trip
Have you wondered how prehistoric people would adapt to the modern world? Look no further than the Basque regions of France and Spain. Today, close to a million Basques continue to speak Euskara, a language with Neolithic roots, in seven regions that straddle these two countries. And in Spain they fiercely maintain their political autonomy as well. On our ten-day adventure, we will visit historic sites, eat, drink and cook dishes that define their cuisine to understand how this ancient culture has managed to survive as Europe grew up around it over many millennia.
Our home in French Basque country is the thriving city of Bayonne, the unsung chocolate capital of France and home to the country’s favorite ham. Our daily outings will take us to Espelette, where Europe’s only chili pepper flourishes, a farm making Ossau Iraty cheese, a winery that ages its bottles in the Bay of Biscayne, a cider house and an outstanding distillery.
During our days in San Sebastian and along the shoreline of Spain, we can conjure the courageous Basques who built ships and fished in open boats for whales in the Bay of Biscayne and for cod along the Atlantic shore as far as Newfoundland. We will tour the city, visit the fish market followed by a cooking class and bar hop to sample the famous pintxos snacks.
Join us for the exciting food, the legendary scenery, the welcoming people that continue to express its historic uniqueness.
Terms and conditions can be found here.
Madelaine Bullwinkel has been teaching the ‘how to’s and whys’ of French cooking at Chez Madelaine Cooking School for almost 50 years and has led culinary tours to France since 1995.
She holds a graduate degree in art history and a professional diploma in French cooking. The 40th anniversary of her cookbook, Artisanal Preserves was published in 2024.
DATE
September 13-23, 2025
Sample Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival in Bayonne & Welcome Dinner
Upon arrival in Bayonne, make your way to the hotel.
Our journey through the French Basque Country begins in the charming city of Bayonne, where the confluence of the Nive and Adour rivers creates a picturesque setting for half-timbered houses painted in traditional Basque colors. Take some time to explore the narrow medieval streets of Grand Bayonne, the city's magnificent ramparts and the Gothic cathedral, a UNESCO world heritage site and testament to Bayonne's rich heritage.
We will gather for a welcome dinner this evening.
Day 2: Bayonne
Today we’ll begin with a visit to the Basque Museum housed in Maison Dagourette, a 16th-century harbor house on the banks of the Nive river, in the heart of Petit Bayonne. The Musée Basque houses the most important ethnographic collection dedicated to Basque history and culture. En route to the museum, we’ll stop to observe the Basque game of Pelota.
We begin our gastronomic journey with lunch at Bouillon Armand where the menu reflects the 19th century tradition of market fare for the locals.
After lunch, we’ll take an expanded walking tour of the city, culminating in a stroll down the Rue Port Neuf, also known as “Rue Chocolate”. Discover who has the best chocolate bars, truffles, and hot chocolate. Bayonne became the chocolate center of Europe in the 16th century when the Sephardic Jews, fleeing the Spanish Inquisition, settled there bringing their chocolate-making skills with them.
In the evening, we will dine at Cidrerie Ttipia to experience a tradition of farmhouse cooking accompanied by cider whose history goes back to the 11th century.
Day 3: Bayonne
Today we’ll enjoy an exceptional culinary experience - a cooking class in a private restaurant. During the four-hour class, we will learn to prepare traditional dishes and, of course, the quintessential gâteau Basque, while discovering the stories behind these regional specialties. The experience culminates in a convivial meal where we’ll enjoy our creations paired with local wines, all while taking in views of the Nive River through the school's large windows.
The rest of the afternoon and evening at leisure.
Day 4: Espelette
After breakfast, we’ll drive to Sare, one of the region’s prettiest villages and well known for the Lezea cave of the Sare Grotto. We will have a tour of its vast chambers and learn about its prehistoric residents. For those wanting to delve deeper into the region's history, the on-site museum showcases artifacts and exhibits related to the cave's significance.
Today is mostly about Espelette, the village and the spice. The spice is well known Basque ingredient, and it hangs from the balconies and windows in the tiny village of Espelette. We’ll begin with visit to a family workshop where they've grown and processed these famous peppers for generations. They will demonstrate how they sort, dry, and grind the piment d'Espelette into the precious spice that's become the cornerstone of Basque cuisine. After a tasting, we’ll continue to the village of Espelette. We’ll have a brief tour and then visit a shop for a tasting of some of the Basque country’s finest products, including pepper-infused delicacies - from dark chocolate to cheese to ham seasoned with the distinctive spice.
Day 5: Ascain - St Jean de Luz
This morning we will depart for Ascain, home to Lartigue 1910, one of the preeminent manufacturers of Basque distinctive striped textiles. From warpers, weavers to seamstresses, we’ll see how linen was traditionally woven and continues to keep its artisanal character. We’ll discover their methods for creating the patterns and producing the finished linens - from tableware and dish towels to soft furnishings to bags, and the famous espadrilles. From Ascain we will visit a very special winery called Egiategia, pioneers of subsea winemaking. We will visit the winery, discover their unique “oceanic process”, followed by a tasting of their effervescent wines with pinxtos.
We will continue to St Jean de Luz, an ancient Basque fishing port that became a resort town in the 19th century known for its beaches, spas and celebrity sightings. We will visit the church where the town’s most famous visitor, King Louis XIV, was married to the Spanish princess María-Teresa in 1660, ending almost 100 years of conflict between their nations.
Day 6: St Jean Pied de Port -> Sare -> San Sebastian
This morning we check out of the hotel and drive to St Jean Pied de Port, the ancient border between France and Spain and the starting point for pilgrims walking the 780 kilometers to Santiago de Compostela. While there, we will have lunch at a very special restaurant. After a guided tour, we’ll have two further culinary treats. The first is a cheesemaker a little further up in the Pyrenean foothills. We’ll see how she presses sheep’s milk cheese curds into molds and tells the story of how she learned cheesemaking from her mother and grandmother. Before leaving, we’ll have a tasting. Nearby is an artisanal distillery, and our final stop in the French Basque Country, where three generations have crafted Basque liqueurs from wild plants and fruits gathered in the hills.
Afterwards, we say good-by to France and travel the 60 miles to San Sebastián, Spain, where our Basque journey continues.
Day 7: San Sebastián
Experience San Sebastian's charm through a private city tour that begins at the dramatic Comb of the Wind sculpture and Igeldo Mountain's panoramic views, before exploring the Belle Époque grandeur of the City Center with its iconic landmarks. The journey continues through the historic Old Town, where cobbled streets lead to Constitution Square. You’ll be immersed in the rich cultural heritage of this stunning town while you experience the essence of Basque cuisine as you for pintxos in San Sebastian's Old Town and City Center for gourmet tastings.
Day 8: Cooking Class
This morning, during our market tour in San Sebastian you will visit the two main food markets, La Bretxa and San Martin, to learn about Basque gastronomy and the different local products sold in them.
You will get to know the history behind both markets and you will be surrounded by local people during the whole tour (if we are lucky, we may even bump into one of the famous chefs of San Sebastian while they shop).
Afterwards, we will unlock the secrets of Spanish Basque cuisine with a raditional Basque cuisine cooking class! Through this immersive culinary experience you’ll learn traditional cooking techniques and ingredients, offering a genuine taste of Basque home cooking.
Day 9: San Sebastián -> Añana Salt Valley -> Bilbao
Journey through the picturesque Basque countryside this morning on a scenic 90-minute drive from San Sebastián to the historic Añana Salt Valley, where crystalline springs have been transformed into salt through traditional methods for 6,000 years. At this stunning archaeological and cultural site, we’ll walk along wooden walkways suspended above the terraced salt pans, where you can see the landscape of more than 120 working salt production platforms. We’ll learn about the salt-making process, see the salt water flowing through wooden channels, and watch a demonstration of salt harvesting while taking in breathtaking views. Today the salt is used by Michelin chefs and home cooks alike and our tour along the wooden walkways ends in a tasting.
We’ll continue to Bilbao and check into the hotel. The rest of the afternoon and evening at leisure.
Day 10: The Spanish Coast & The Guggenheim
This morning, we’re drive along the rugged Basque coastline that stretches along the Bay of Biscayne, offering dramatic cliffs, hidden coves, and charming fishing villages. A short drive inland leads to the historic town of Guernica, inspiration of Picasso's masterpiece after the bombing of this seat of Basque culture by the Nazis in 1937. We’ll visit the preserved Assembly House with its ancient oak tree where Basques have convened since the Middle Ages make agreements and enact laws.
After returning to Bilbao, we’ll visit the Guggenheim Museum Frank Gehry's titanium-clad building that rises from the banks of the Nervión River like a gleaming ship, its undulating forms creating an ever-changing play of light that has transformed this former industrial city into a global arts destination. We will have a guided tour and then return to the hotel.
This evening we’ll meet for a farewell dinner.
Day 11: Departure
This morning after breakfast say goodbye to your travel companions and new friends as you travel to the Bilbao Airport for your onward destinations.
